Exploring the Charm of Casale Monferrato: A Hidden Gem in Italy

Piedmont countryside in Italy (Photo: Pixabay)

 

Casale is a small town nestled in the Piedmont region of North West Italy. While its current Jewish population is minimal, this was not always the case. Historically, Casale was home to a prosperous Jewish community that settled there following their expulsion from Spain in 1492 by Queen Elisabella and King Ferdinando. It is unclear what initially drew the Jewish community to Casale, but it quickly grew in both size and affluence. At its peak, the community boasted 650 members, a remarkable figure given the town's modest size. The community's wealth is reflected in the local Synagogue, a small yet resplendent baroque structure constructed in the seventeenth century in the area that would later become the town's ghetto. This ghetto was established in 1723, shortly after Casale was annexed to the Savoy territories, and officially became active in 1741.

 

The neighborhood that formed the Casale ghetto was bordered by the present-day streets of Azeglio, Balbo, Alessandria, and Piazza San Francesco. Today, many of the streets and buildings retain their original layout, with interconnected courtyards and internal passageways enabling movement within the ghetto's confines. Notably, at number 16 via Alessandria, one can still see the remnants of the hooks that once secured one of the gates that closed off the area. These gates were dismantled during the Napoleonic occupation but were later restored during the years of the Restoration. It wasn't until the Albertine Statute of 1848, which granted equal rights to all citizens, that the ghetto was finally abolished. (See last paragraph for more historical details regarding the “Albertine Statute” and its political and military context).

The town of Monferrato (Photo: Pixabay)
 

To truly experience the rich history of Casale, one should begin their tour in the area that was once the town's Jewish ghetto. Here, one can embark on a treasure hunt of sorts, searching for the hidden gem that is the Synagogue. As was customary before emancipation, the Synagogue of Casale Monferrato is discreetly tucked away behind an unremarkable building facade. However, upon passing through the small entrance door, visitors are greeted with a breathtaking display of Baroque artistry. The walls and ceiling of the Synagogue are adorned with intricate painted decorations, creating a stunning visual feast for the eyes. The small size of the Synagogue only adds to its charm, as visitors feel enveloped in a precious little treasure trove. As a prime example of Piedmont's late Baroque architectural style, the Synagogue was declared a national monument after undergoing extensive restoration work in 1968.

 

After exploring the Synagogue, visitors should head to the upper floor to visit the "Silver’s Museum," which is situated beside the women's gallery. Here, one can marvel at one of the most extensive collections of Judaica in all of Europe. The museum houses an impressive collection of silver artifacts, including candlesticks, chalices, and candelabras used for religious ceremonies. Additionally, there is a section dedicated entirely to the Chanukkiot, which sheds light on their role in Jewish religious practice and their influence on artistic expression. The Chanukkiot are represented by a fascinating range of styles and materials, from traditional silver pieces to contemporary interpretations. The museum's exhibits provide a fascinating insight into Jewish history and culture, making it a must-visit destination for anyone interested in the region's rich heritage.

 

It's fascinating to note that despite its size, Casale boasts not one but two Jewish cemeteries. The first, known as the "Vecchio cimitero" or Old cemetery, was established in the early 18th century, while the second, the "Nuovo cimitero" or New cemetery, was founded at the beginning of the 20th century. Both cemeteries are well worth a visit, as they offer a glimpse into the evolution of Jewish burial practices in Italy. Prior to emancipation in the late 19th century, Jewish burial sites were often simple and unadorned. However, after the emancipation, Jewish graves began to incorporate more elaborate and decorative features, often mirroring the styles prevalent in Italian society. In some cases, these graves were replaced by impressive "monumental" burial sites, such as those found in the Jewish section of the "Cimitero Monumentale" in Milan. Here, famous architects and artists of the time were commissioned to create elaborate and striking burial projects, demonstrating the changing attitudes towards death and memorialization in Italian Jewish culture.

Monferrato Hills (Photo: Pixabay)

As the tour continues, a stop at the local historical pastry shop "Portinaro" is highly recommended. Located amidst the old, winding alleys, the shop offers a chance to taste one of the local specialties - the "krumiri rossi" - in their kosher version. Satisfy your sweet tooth and indulge in this delectable treat before venturing into the picturesque Monferrato area. With its rolling hills, charming hamlets, castles, and farmhouses, the region is a renowned winemaking destination. A wine tasting paired with kosher bites is an absolute must-do experience that will provide an excellent opportunity to explore the rich flavors and traditions of the area.

 

Then, if you are not too tipsy from the wine tasting, the tour can take you to explore a couple more synagogues in the Piedmont region, which boasts the highest number of surviving synagogues in Italy and possibly in all of Europe. This is not a coincidence, as the political and military process initiated by King Carlo Alberto of Piedmont and Sardinia in 1848 to unify Italy was accompanied by the desire to emancipate the Italian Jewish community. That same year, the "Statuto Albertino" was promulgated, explicitly stating that the reunification of Italy should lead to the full emancipation of its Jewish population. This was eventually achieved in 1870, when the Jews were fully integrated into Italian society and political life.

 

But after this historical digression, let’s leave our next Piedmontese story for another blog post.

Andrea Alcalay from La Tour I-Talya. LaTour I-Talya is a project established and managed by a team of Italian Jews working together with one of the largest and most prestigious Italian Tour Operators. LaTour I-Talya specializes in tour packages which  focus on the amazingly rich Jewish historical and cultural heritage found throughout Italy.

Read more articles from our Hidden Gems of Italy series:
Echoes of the Past: Unraveling Trieste's Jewish Legacy
A Walk Through History: Exploring Ferrara's Jewish Heritage
Beyond Rome: The Enchanting Villages of Anagni and Alatri
Get in Touch with the oldest Jewish community in Tuscany
The Jewish beauty of Florence
Mantua: First stop in the Renaissance cities of Northern Italy
Pitigliano: "Little Jerusalem" in the Tuscan Maremma Region
Cividale del Friuli: Jewish Tours of Italy off the Beaten Path
The Charming Padova (Padua)
The Marche Region: Undiscovered area of Central Italy