Gulf of Trieste (Photo: Envato)
The city of Trieste, situated strategically on the Adriatic sea and bordering Slovenia on the east, holds an incredible history as a gateway between the Adriatic Sea and Central and Eastern Europe. This unique position has rendered it a melting pot of Italian, Austro-Hungarian, Mittel European, and Slavic cultures. This blend is especially evident in its diverse Jewish community.
Historical Roots: Jews in Trieste
Records indicate that the Jewish presence in Trieste dates back to the 13th century. Notably, a 1236 notary deed mentions a Jew named Daniel David. This individual was known for fighting robbers in the Carso mountain region, which surrounds Trieste. Just as a note of color and culture, the Carso is a famous plateau with harsh rocky landscape covered with dense forests and rivers disappearing into the depths of the Carso mountains, either to resurface several kilometers away or just vanishing inside their crevices – the English term of German origin “Karst” was coined by the geologists who studied the Karstic landscapes.
Medieval Commerce: Jews and Tuscans
By the 14th century, many German Jews had made Trieste their home. At the same time, there was a considerable presence of Jews, especially Tuscans and Florentines, engaged in banking and commerce. Interesting to note that the first bank, which still exists – Monte dei Paschi di Siena - was created in Siena in the 14th century. The Jewish money lenders, often offering better loan terms than their Tuscan counterparts, became a trusted source for Trieste's inhabitants.
The Ghetto Era and Habsburg Connection
At the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries the Jewish community grew due to the influx of refugees escaping persecutions in Rome, Spain and Germany. They chose Trieste because there they could enjoy special statutory rights from the local Comune (Municipality). However, as in many other cases throughout Italian and European history, the situation could change for the worse at any time. In the late 17th century, tensions with local authorities led to the establishment of a Jewish ghetto in the Riborgo area.
Despite the limitations, this ghetto became an economic hub, mainly due to its prime location near key commercial areas and the harbor. Further strengthening their position were the ties many Jewish traders had with the Habsburg court in Vienna. These factors allowed the community to live much better than in the ghettos of other cities throughout Italy and Europe. Their connection solidified the community's status, a relationship that only improved with the Habsburgs' “Edicts of Tolerance” in the late 18th century, leading to the demolition of the ghetto gates in 1785.
The Synagogue of Trieste (Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
Fascism and Destruction
Unfortunately, much of the original ghetto no longer stands, having been destroyed during the "fascist sanitation" program of the late 1930s. Just to give you a demographic data, in 1931, 5,025 people lived in the Trieste ghetto, a figure that increased to 6,000 in 1938 when the infamous fascist racial laws were issued. Nowadays, Trieste’s Jewish population numbers around 700 people. Tragically, during the first half of the 20th century, Trieste became a focal point for three major dictatorships that changed the course of history.
- Mussolini's Racial Laws: Mussolini announced the Racial Laws in Trieste in 1938, targeting Italy's Jewish population.
- Nazi Extermination: The only nazi extermination camp on Italian soil, the Risiera di San Sabba, was located near Trieste. The darkest period of the Trieste Jews and the local population was between 1943 and 1944 when there were frequent roundups by the Nazi military. In February 1944, many Jews were locked up in the Risiera di San Sabba before being deported to Auschwitz.
- Communist Threat: Trieste was the border city that bore the brunt of the communist troops of General Tito, later to become President of Yugoslavia, who carried out an ethnic cleansing against the Italian population in the nearby areas and threatened to invade Trieste.
Despite these adversities, Trieste played a crucial role post-WW2 as a departure point for Jewish refugees heading to Israel or the United States.
Modern-Day Trieste: A City of Culture
Today, Trieste is a vibrant city teeming with life. Visitors can immerse themselves in its multicultural ambience, peruse old bookshops, and relax in charming coffee shops. Not to be missed is the stunning Piazza Unità d’Italia, surrounded by beautifully restored old buildings, dotted by lovely old style coffee shops and that also features a channel connecting it to the seaside.
Piazza Unita d'Italia (Photo: Pixabay)
Discovering Jewish Heritage in Trieste
For those keen on exploring the Jewish influence, Trieste offers a range of historically rich sites. The Synagogue, one of the largest and grandest in Europe, was opened in 1912. It symbolizes the influence that the local Jewish community had achieved in the economic and cultural life of the city. We will then visit the area of the old ghetto and the Jewish Museum where you will get an interesting historical and cultural insight not only of the local Jewish Community, but also of this very interesting city. Last stop of our Jewish tour of Trieste will be the Risiera di San Sabba concentration camp on the outskirts of the city.
The “Carlo and Vera Wagner” Museum of the Jewish Trieste Community details Jewish history in Trieste from the Middle Ages to today. The exhibition has a large collection of Judaica and covers the history of the Jewish presence in Trieste from the early Middle Ages to the present day, touching the historical, religious, cultural and Shoà aspects. It is located in an old building which housed the Jewish hospital in the 18th and 19th centuries. During the 20th century, it became the headquarter for the Jewish Agency, which initially engaged in rescuing and hosting Jewish emigrants from central and eastern Europe and after WWII helped Jewish survivors to reach the Promised Land and the United States, from Trieste port.
The Synagogue of Trieste, a masterpiece designed by Ruggero Berlam, is the fifth Synagogue built in Trieste (nothing remains of the other four). Its main aim was to give the then expanding local Jewish community a house of worship that could host the entire community. The structure has mainly oriental references thanks to the mullioned windows, its columns, through the carvings and rosettes that form the Star of David. The architecture is a mix of different styles that could be appreciated by all the different Jewish communities living in Trieste.
Miramare Castle (Photo: Pixabay)
Beyond the City: The Tragic Tale of Miramare Castle
Just outside of Trieste, perched on the cliffs with a panoramic view of the Adriatic sea, stands the enchanting Miramare Castle. The name "Miramare" is an Italian rendition of the original "Miramar," inspired by the Spanish phrase "mirar el mar" which means "looking at the sea." This connection is said to be a reflection of Maximilian of Habsburg's memories of Spanish castles gracing the Atlantic coasts.
Nestled amidst a sprawling 22-hectare park, the castle is surrounded by a variety of exotic plants. Many of these botanical wonders were handpicked by the Archduke himself during his voyages as the admiral of the Austrian navy. Hidden within the park is the petite castle, initially the couple's residence during the grand castle's construction. However, this smaller castle took on a more somber role, becoming a prison of sorts for Carlota when her mental health was compromised and her husband was assassinated in Mexico.
Today, the interiors of Miramare Castle remain largely untouched, providing a window into the lives and tragic destinies of its noble inhabitants. The original furnishings bear witness to the tales of Archduke Maximilian and his wife, Carlota of Saxony, the daughter of the King of Belgium. While the couple's sad fate meant they could never truly enjoy the splendor of their residence, their legacy lives on. The upper floor underwent transformations when Duke Amedeo of Aosta from the esteemed Savoia Italian royal family took residence. He made modifications to reflect the era's style, notably replacing the Imperial-Royal insignia with Savoy crosses.
It's a haunting twist of fate that both primary inhabitants of Miramare met tragic ends away from home: Maximilian in Mexico and Amedeo in an Ethiopian prison. As you explore Trieste, a detour to this castle not only offers an architectural marvel but also poignant tales of ambition, power, and destiny.
Conclusion
Trieste stands as a living testament to the intricate mosaic of cultures, faiths, and histories that have woven together over centuries. Its Jewish heritage illuminates a narrative of resilience, adaptation, and influence, reflecting Europe's broader history. For the kosher traveler, Trieste offers more than just a journey through time; Chabad of Trieste and Slovenia, along with the Jewish Community of Trieste, offer services and kosher food. The Jewish Community of Trieste offers kosher catering, a kosher store, and a mikvah. Moreover, indulgences await with local kosher gelato and a pastry shop. Check out TJT's guide to kosher and Jewish life in Trieste.
As visitors traverse the streets of this Adriatic jewel, the layers of its past resonate in every corner, not just as echoes of bygone eras but as living traditions and vibrant communities that continue to shape its present and future.
As visitors traverse the streets of this Adriatic jewel, the layers of its past resonate in every corner, not just as echoes of bygone eras but as living traditions and vibrant communities that continue to shape its present and future.
Andrea Alcalay from La Tour I-Talya. LaTour I-Talya is a project established and managed by a team of Italian Jews working together with one of the largest and most prestigious Italian Tour Operators. LaTour I-Talya specializes in tour packages which focus on the amazingly rich Jewish historical and cultural heritage found throughout Italy.
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Read more articles from our Hidden Gems of Italy series:
A Walk Through History: Exploring Ferrara's Jewish Heritage
Beyond Rome: The Enchanting Villages of Anagni and Alatri
Exploring the Charm of Casale Monferrato
Get in Touch with the oldest Jewish community in Tuscany
The Jewish beauty of Florence
Mantua: First stop in the Renaissance cities of Northern Italy
Pitigliano: "Little Jerusalem" in the Tuscan Maremma Region
Cividale del Friuli: Jewish Tours of Italy off the Beaten Path
The Charming Padova (Padua)
The Marche Region: Undiscovered area of Central Italy